|David R. Combs, CSI, CCS, CCCA|
Post Number: 101
|Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 11:56 am: |
Seems like as good a time as any to start a new thread . . .
I don't normally do this, but I'm getting desperate.
Whould anyone out there happen to have a spec section for Concrete Countertops they'd be willing to share?
(Division 3 or 12, doesn't matter; but field-fabricated, not precast)
I've tried the Concrete Countertop Institute's website, and enCOUNTER's, but neither has any offerings in the way of a guide spec.
Willing to trade for the ever-popular "Player (i.e. spec section) To Be Named Later."
Let the bartering begin!
|Ralph Liebing, RA, CSI|
Post Number: 322
|Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 12:37 pm: |
No spec, but try a goggle search for concrete countertops-- everything from books to articles, and a concretenetwrok.com site.
You may not find a CSI format specs, but quick look/see showed lot of info for a spec Section, and with your skill, should be no sweat!
|Lynn Javoroski CSI CCS LEED AP SCIP Affiliate|
Post Number: 310
|Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 12:39 pm: |
Sorry - I just spent about 15 minutes searching through paper and electronic archives to no avail. (we *almost* specified a concrete countertop; it did get installed, but was not specified). What I do remember from my research (as well as looking at the actual installation), however, is that it's critical to provide separation between the concrete and whatever else is part of the countertop - any wood or steel, for example. Concrete retains moisture for a long time and neither wood nor steel like moisture.
I also know that I did find some help on the internet. Wish I could help more.
|Anne Whitacre, CCS CSI|
Post Number: 302
|Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 12:56 pm: |
if you think of the concrete countertop as a very large stair tread, you can specify it that way. (I've done them for exterior camping shelters and also for interior work). you need a decent vapor barrier; you pour the concrete using a stiff mix of some sort (4000 psi usually works in our area, or 5000 psi; but then we put in all sorts of pretty aggregates) and then protect it. if necessary, allow for bolts from the bottom so it can be screwed into some accessory framing.
|David Axt, AIA, CCS, CSI|
Post Number: 624
|Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 02:03 pm: |
I don't have a spec, but you can always buy the book.
Or check out the FAQ:
|Margaret G. Chewning FCSI CCS |
Post Number: 89
|Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 02:50 pm: |
I remember seeing such a product on This Old House a long while back on the Tucson house renovation. http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/knowhow/adding/article/0,16417,201577,00.html
I went to their website and found some other articles and links that may be useful. http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/search/results/1,17088,,00.html?archive=&query=concrete+countertops
http://www.chengdesign.com/ is one of the links to a person that designs and makes the counters.
Hope this helps
|Jerome J. Lazar, RA, CCS, CSI, SCIP|
Post Number: 199
|Posted on Wednesday, March 01, 2006 - 03:50 am: |
david - just flew back in town
Will email an excellent article from Journal of Light Construction.
I'll check my database later today after I normalize from Calif time and see if I have a spec on concrete contertops.
One of the Architects I work with uses concrete counterops in this projects all the time.
|David R. Combs, CSI, CCS, CCCA|
Post Number: 103
|Posted on Friday, March 03, 2006 - 10:44 am: |
Thanks, all, for the feedback, leads and information.
It is very much appreciated.