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David L. Heuring, AIA, CCCA
Senior Member
Username: daveh

Post Number: 13
Registered: 04-2020


Posted on Tuesday, October 11, 2022 - 01:37 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Interested in comments: Pro's and Con's of using 3 1/2" batts in 2 x 6 studs. I realized there are a myriad of scenarios, but we have R-5 CI on the exterior, 2 x 6 studs at 24" o.c. for structural reasons, and only need R20 or R-13+5 (CI) per code. If the 3 1/2" unfaced friction batt insulation is installed tight to the exterior sheathing (with straps to keep in place where necessary) and there is a gap between the insulation and interior gyp bd, then what comments would you have as a designer and/or specifier? Specs indicate "Install batts to fill entire stud cavity, with no gaps, voids, or areas of compression" so this would need to be coordinated with a wall type/section on the drawings.
David L. Heuring, AIA, CCCA, LEED AP, NCARB
Wayne Yancey
Senior Member
Username: wayne_yancey

Post Number: 951
Registered: 01-2008


Posted on Tuesday, October 11, 2022 - 01:58 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Your assembly is perfectly acceptable.

The only comment is use mineral wool batts versus fiberglass. Mineral wool batts are heavier/denser than fiberglass. More rigid during install.

For thermal and acoustical control, mineral wool has slightly better performance than fiberglass.

While, both unfaced fiberglass and unfaced mineral wool are noncombustible and help delay the spread of fire, mineral (stone) wool does have a much higher melting point than fiberglass, and as such it is often considered the more fire-resistant material.

I think one of the fiberglass batt manufacturers is now producing a denser product to mitigate the slumping of traditional fiberglass batts in the stud cavity. No personal experience if this is true.
John Bunzick
Senior Member
Username: bunzick

Post Number: 1897
Registered: 03-2002
Posted on Tuesday, October 11, 2022 - 02:43 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

My instinct is that the insulation should be tight to the sheathing so that there is no air space between the two layers of insulation. This would prevent air circulating within each stud cavity that would reduce the effectiveness of the assembly. I'm not sure if the building science supports this approach. Also, if using breathable, paper faced fiberglass batts with the stapling flange, that could be easily used to support the insulation.

A question to consider, though, is why not use thicker insulation? What's the cost differential between 3-1/2 inch and six? Wouldn't there be additional energy savings? I guess that comes down to why build only to the minimum, unless the project's climate is really such that there is no difference. Or, if the heat/air/moisture dynamic is such that this creates a condensation plane where it is not desired.
David L. Heuring, AIA, CCCA
Senior Member
Username: daveh

Post Number: 14
Registered: 04-2020


Posted on Tuesday, October 11, 2022 - 02:44 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

I am wondering why it is so difficult to find any industry backup for this 'design'. To minimize risk, it is always better to be able to defend a design with backup vs. stating that 'I just thought it was more cost efficient...'
David L. Heuring, AIA, CCCA, LEED AP, NCARB
ken hercenberg
Senior Member
Username: khercenberg

Post Number: 1521
Registered: 12-2006


Posted on Tuesday, October 11, 2022 - 05:00 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

It's an interesting question, especially if it's true that labor costs are the lion's share of the equation. Obviously it would up to the owner as to whether or not the additional cost was worth it to them.

Ever use "bagged" fiberglass insulation like JM ComfortTherm Hi Perm - https://www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/global/en/building-insulation/Files/BI%20Data%20Sheets/Resi%20and%20Commercial/JM_BI_ComfortTherm_DS_BID_0146.pdf

It makes handling and installing a lot easier on the Installers than unfaced fiberglass.

To that end I would prefer handling mineral fiber over unfaced fiberglass, all else being about equal (except cost and maybe availability).
Lisa Goodwin Robbins, RA, CCS, LEED ap
Senior Member
Username: lgoodrob

Post Number: 411
Registered: 08-2004
Posted on Tuesday, October 11, 2022 - 05:59 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

David,
Try these websites for backup, then run a WUFI analysis:
https://www.pacerepresentatives.com/wall-bods/
https://www.buildingscience.com/
https://www.owenscorning.com/en-us/insulation/commercial/enclosure/applications/walls

-
Greta Eckhardt (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted on Tuesday, October 11, 2022 - 08:17 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

The issue with thick insulation in the stud space is that the dewpoint may move into the wall where moisture could condense and cause mold, corrosion and other water damage.

There is no universal answer for your question because the answer will depend in part on the climate of the building's location, as well as the permeance of the sheathing and other materials in the exterior wall.

Consulting the references Lisa suggests would be an excellent first step, followed by hygrothermal analysis such as WUFI.
Phil Kabza
Senior Member
Username: phil_kabza

Post Number: 726
Registered: 12-2002


Posted on Wednesday, October 12, 2022 - 03:30 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Place some emphasis on John Bunzick's comment regarding air circulation within the stud space. If the airspace left over after the batt installation is large enough, a convective loop may be induced, somewhat degrading performance. How much? Maybe a building scientist like Joe Lstiburek knows. Back in my prehistoric superinsulated house days, we read that cavities should be full even to the point of slightly compressing batt insulation to reduce potential for air movement.
Phil Kabza FCSI CCS AIA
SpecGuy Specifications Consultants
www.SpecGuy.com
phil@specguy.com
David L. Heuring, AIA, CCCA
Senior Member
Username: daveh

Post Number: 15
Registered: 04-2020


Posted on Wednesday, October 12, 2022 - 04:55 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Phil (and John)- I am an old school Architect- contractor. I agree with you. I learned at Ball State University- Architecture college and CERES. We calculated Dew points by drawing graphs thru wall sections using u-values of the components, including air spaces. I keep going back to the risk management inherent in design and specifications- bucking a manufacturer's recommendations leaves us standing there alone with the responsibility! Keep it coming- all good opinions!!!
David L. Heuring, AIA, CCCA, LEED AP, NCARB
Greta Eckhardt (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted on Wednesday, October 12, 2022 - 05:01 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

If one installs 3-1/2" batt insulation in 6" stud space, as long as it is secured tightly to the exterior sheathing, I don't think there would be much in the way of convection in the air space between the insulation and the interior gypsum board, since it would be at interior room temperature.

It seems to me that convection would be a problem only if there were an air space between the insulation and the exterior sheathing.

In one sense the best thing would be to pack the 6" stud space with 6" of insulation so there are no air spaces, but at that point one might have moved the dewpoint into the stud space, depending on various factors as I mentioned earlier.
Brian E. Trimble, CDT
Senior Member
Username: brian_e_trimble_cdt

Post Number: 133
Registered: 08-2005


Posted on Wednesday, October 12, 2022 - 11:50 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Maybe I'm missing the question, but continuous insulation (CI) would be better than batt AND continuous insulation due to thermal bridging through the studs. With CI you have the same thermal profile anywhere on the wall, while it varies if you mostly have batt insulation between the studs. Of course, we add more wall thickness with just CI. And if you have an air barrier would there be many convective loops? I think it would be minimal, but with batt insulation this could still have an impact and you want to fill it as much as possible. And maybe that's another reason for CI - you don't have to worry above crevices, you just have to make sure the board is continuous.
Phil Kabza
Senior Member
Username: phil_kabza

Post Number: 727
Registered: 12-2002


Posted on Thursday, October 13, 2022 - 06:40 am:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Brian: I believe you are correct. I think we fool ourselves with framing cavity insulation, especially with metal studs. There's a wide range of quality control on jobsites with respect to insulation installation because of which the real world performance may or may not achieve the theoretical numbers. CI is easy to inspect; stud cavities are not, especially if you specify faced batts. A modest crack alongside a batt bypasses the entire batt, which is another reason why stud cavities should be filled or over-filled.
Phil Kabza FCSI CCS AIA
SpecGuy Specifications Consultants
www.SpecGuy.com
phil@specguy.com
John Bunzick
Senior Member
Username: bunzick

Post Number: 1898
Registered: 03-2002
Posted on Thursday, October 13, 2022 - 04:03 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

One of the downsides of thicker continuous insulation is that it can complicate the cladding installation. R-5 insulation is probably only about an inch thick, which can be dealt with by long fasteners. As the insulation gets thicker, that no longer works so well. Then you need to have a system of cleats, and they, too, are a thermal bridge.

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