| Author |
Message |
Robin E. Snyder
Senior Member
Username: robin
Post Number: 446
Registered: 08-2004
| | Posted on Monday, February 25, 2013 - 06:15 pm: |    |
Anyone aware of any concrete sealers that can be tinted? I have some slightly used concrete that has some discoloration that the contractor doesn't want to clean (long story) and the Owner doesn't want to pay for staining (or cleaning). So, they seem to think that a tinted sealer will help and I am doing my due diligence. Any suggestions? |
ken hercenberg
Senior Member
Username: khercenberg
Post Number: 439
Registered: 12-2006
| | Posted on Monday, February 25, 2013 - 07:08 pm: | |
There are lots of ways to tint 'sealers' and even some good products around.
No cleaning means nothing reputable that I know of can be applied to it. At least nothing that will provide anything close to a uniform appearance. |
Mark Gilligan SE,
Senior Member
Username: mark_gilligan
Post Number: 536
Registered: 10-2007
| | Posted on Monday, February 25, 2013 - 07:31 pm: | |
What is the life espectancy of the sealer? My understanding is that masonry sealers need to be recoated periodically. |
Wayne Yancey
Senior Member
Username: wayne_yancey
Post Number: 568
Registered: 01-2008
| | Posted on Monday, February 25, 2013 - 07:36 pm: | |
Sealers (clear or tinted) require some type of cleaning to remove efflorescence, non-compatible curing compounds, and other deleterious materials in accordance with the sealer manufacturer's instructions.
This is particularly true for impregnating sealers such as Ashford Formula, Sonneborn "Kure-N-Harden", Burke "Titan Hard", Dayton Superior "Day-Chem Sure Hard J-17 Sil-Cure" etc, etc.
A colored penetrating sealer is Nano-Lithium Color/Hardener: SealSource International (800-305-9144) "SS KromaKrete"; Color as selected from standard color offering. VOC Content: Less than 50 gms/L. |
Robin E. Snyder
Senior Member
Username: robin
Post Number: 447
Registered: 08-2004
| | Posted on Monday, February 25, 2013 - 07:41 pm: | |
I should clarify that they are willing to do the basic cleaning required by the sealer manufacturer, but not any grinding or additional cleaning to remove the discolorated areas |
Colin Gilboy
Senior Member
Username: colin
Post Number: 336
Registered: 09-2005
| | Posted on Monday, February 25, 2013 - 07:53 pm: | |
This is also a floor and not a masonry or concrete wall.
Colin Gilboy
Publisher, 4specs.com
435.654.5775 - Utah
800.369.8008 |
anon (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 26, 2013 - 11:51 am: | |
There is a product that you could take a look at - a PMMA "stain" called cryl-a-stain made by Dur-a-flex that I have been interested in specifying for quite some time now, but the need has not arisen for it yet. It is a film-former product, but has incredible durability - way more than more commonly used acrylics and even better than epoxy/urethanes. And it's tintable. Cures super fast. Pretty slick product. |
ken hercenberg
Senior Member
Username: khercenberg
Post Number: 441
Registered: 12-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 26, 2013 - 01:44 pm: | |
PMMA (methyl methacrylates) and polyurea coatings can be good options but they cost and they require blasting of the surface to get a profile. They are also not vapor permeable but tend to have great adhesion when done right.
The better acrylic traffic coatings like Crossfield's Miracote and Strongwall's Strongcote provide vapor permeable installations and are designed for pedestrian and vehicular traffic. To do them right also requires light surface blasting.
Lithium or silicate based products may be your best option though not all of them are marketed for walking or driving surfaces. That doesn't mean they won't work, they just won't be warranted and may wear a bit faster than a floor or deck product will. |
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