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Russell W. Wood, CSI, CCS
Senior Member
Username: woodr5678

Post Number: 129
Registered: 11-2003
Posted on Friday, February 27, 2009 - 04:53 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

It's been so long since I was on the boards...I've forgotten. Should 1 x fascia boards and drip nailers be PT?
Curt Norton, CSI, CCS
Senior Member
Username: curtn

Post Number: 131
Registered: 06-2002


Posted on Friday, February 27, 2009 - 08:10 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Pressure treated lumber is so wet when it arrives on site I wouldn't use it unless it was absolutely necessary - such as a sill plate on a concrete foundation. The firms I've worked for recently and the State of Wisconsin have even stopped using it for low slope roof blocking. If that wood is getting wet, there are bigger problems to deal with. Plus, it costs more to use it.
Steven Hauk
Senior Member
Username: sh1net

Post Number: 10
Registered: 12-2004
Posted on Sunday, March 01, 2009 - 11:05 am:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Would you be in a position to use a more dimensionally stable board, like a fiber cement trim board? It will last longer than wood and hold paint better. Plus...It won't twist and bow.
Jerome J. Lazar, RA, CCS, CSI, SCIP
Senior Member
Username: lazarcitec

Post Number: 652
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Monday, March 02, 2009 - 12:47 am:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Russell, we have always specified either PT Wood or Cedar for Fascia and Drips; never tried alternative board products like AZEK, though it might we worth a shot.
Steven Hauk
Senior Member
Username: sh1net

Post Number: 13
Registered: 12-2004
Posted on Monday, March 02, 2009 - 01:28 am:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Assuming it might have been interpreted as such, I'll clarify that my reply wasn't proposing AZEK. A few years ago, I was working with a developer who had used it on some previous buildings and eventually had problems with the wide, flat shapes.
John Bunzick, CCS, CCCA, LEED AP
Senior Member
Username: bunzick

Post Number: 1016
Registered: 03-2002
Posted on Monday, March 02, 2009 - 08:32 am:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

It depends on where you are geographically, too. Here in the Boston area, D-select pine is commonly used for this purpose. (I'm sure the new composites have made inroads, nevertheless.) Kept painted, it lasts a very long time. My house is just shy of 120 years old and a most of the trim is original, though the barge boards are a bit ragged at the ends, I have to say. Fascias have been replaced because originally the gutters were wood, without facias. Now (sigh) they're aluminum.
Curt Norton, CSI, CCS
Senior Member
Username: curtn

Post Number: 133
Registered: 06-2002


Posted on Monday, March 02, 2009 - 03:15 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

What is the entended exposed finish? If it's metal, then I stand by my earlier post. If it is painted or stained wood, then redwood or cedar would be approriate. However, cement board products are nearly standard for commercial work and higher end residential today.
Russell W. Wood, CSI, CCS
Senior Member
Username: woodr5678

Post Number: 130
Registered: 11-2003
Posted on Monday, March 02, 2009 - 03:46 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

End purpose would be painted...so I guess paint grade would be the ticket.
Phil Kabza
Senior Member
Username: phil_kabza

Post Number: 369
Registered: 12-2002


Posted on Wednesday, March 04, 2009 - 09:41 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

If you're in the Southeast, stay with PTW or plastic. Spec KDAT - kiln dried after treatment - for the PTW to help with problem that Kurt noted above. A lot of builders favor the plastic products.

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