| Author |
Message |
Robin E. Snyder
Senior Member
Username: robin
Post Number: 230
Registered: 08-2004
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 04, 2009 - 03:49 pm: |    |
Can anyone recommend a product that can be used on the top of a masonry parapet wall to provide some level of waterproofing. Thoroseal comes to mind, but I cant seem to locate any info. |
Doug Frank FCSI CCS
Senior Member
Username: doug_frank_ccs
Post Number: 229
Registered: 06-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 04, 2009 - 03:53 pm: | |
Robin, BASF purchased Thoro company a couple of years ago. Check out the BASF web site for a link to Thoro products
Doug Frank FCSI, CCS, SCIP Affiliate
FKP Architects, Inc.
Houston, TX |
Jerome J. Lazar, RA, CCS, CSI, SCIP
Senior Member
Username: lazarcitec
Post Number: 632
Registered: 05-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 04, 2009 - 04:03 pm: | |
Aquafin 1K is also an equal to Thoroseal. |
Wayne Yancey
Senior Member
Username: wayne_yancey
Post Number: 154
Registered: 01-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 04, 2009 - 04:45 pm: | |
Robin,
How about a metal coping over a self-adhesive membrane on sloped PTW blocking or a sloped to drain precast or simulated stone coping with drip edges over a concealed thru-wall membrane flashing?
How is the top of the masonry parapet sloped to drain? |
John Bunzick, CCS, CCCA, LEED AP
Senior Member
Username: bunzick
Post Number: 1004
Registered: 03-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 04, 2009 - 04:49 pm: | |
I agree with Wayne. Use a flashing system of some type, whether exposed metal coping, or concealed flashing below the coping stone. I also like to use sealant in upward-facing endjoints of coping rather than mortar. Avoid using unit masonry as a cap--I don't think it lasts very long. |
Dave Metzger
Senior Member
Username: davemetzger
Post Number: 300
Registered: 07-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 04, 2009 - 06:46 pm: | |
Fully agree with Wayne and John. Cementitious waterproofing products will not help much if mortar joint substrates crack. |
Brian E. Trimble, CDT
Senior Member
Username: brian_e_trimble_cdt
Post Number: 19
Registered: 08-2005
| | Posted on Thursday, February 05, 2009 - 04:24 pm: | |
The only thing that should be considered for the top of the wall should be a coping. Also, be careful in trying to "waterproof" the parapet, especially the back up wall. In most cases it is better to let the wall breathe than try to seal it up tight. Having a good coping, as mentioned previously, is key to making this a durable element. You might want to look back at an article I wrote in Construction Specifier in Oct. 2004 - "Protecting Those Pesky Parapets".
Brian Trimble
Brick Industry Association |
Robin E. Snyder
Senior Member
Username: robin
Post Number: 232
Registered: 08-2004
| | Posted on Thursday, February 05, 2009 - 04:30 pm: | |
Brian: you don't happen to have a copy of that article handy that you can email me, so I can forward it to my client (he doesn't want to do a coping)? robin@spectraspecs.com |
Sheldon Wolfe
Senior Member
Username: sheldon_wolfe
Post Number: 327
Registered: 01-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, February 05, 2009 - 08:43 pm: | |
It's online at Pesky Parapets. |
David Moss (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
| | Posted on Saturday, February 07, 2009 - 11:30 am: | |
In South Florida I have used Liquid plastics Inc. The product is Decothane and meets Miami Dade Requirements. I got the information from Carl Abbott, He had used it many times including his own residence. Carl does not like metal copings. |
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