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David Axt, AIA, CCS, CSI
Senior Member
Username: david_axt

Post Number: 1204
Registered: 03-2002


Posted on Wednesday, June 08, 2011 - 02:32 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Does anyone have recommendation (for or against) using latex additives in repointing masonry mortar?
John Bunzick, CCS, CCCA, LEED AP
Senior Member
Username: bunzick

Post Number: 1320
Registered: 03-2002
Posted on Wednesday, June 15, 2011 - 04:16 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Don't do it. Read the Park Service's preservation standards for the full story. I can't imagine why you'd want to if the repointing is done to best practice.
Brian E. Trimble, CDT
Senior Member
Username: brian_e_trimble_cdt

Post Number: 45
Registered: 08-2005
Posted on Wednesday, June 15, 2011 - 04:41 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Latex modified mortars may make the mortar too strong for the units. I remember the NYC Dept of Design and Construction requiring this in the past - incorrectly of course. As John said, there just isn't any reason to consider this. Look at ASTM C1713 Standard for Mortar for the Repair of Historic Masonry. This lists the appropriate materials to use.
ken hercenberg
Senior Member
Username: khercenberg

Post Number: 84
Registered: 12-2006
Posted on Tuesday, July 05, 2011 - 04:20 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

David, I pretty much limit my selections to Jahn Mortars or Edison's Rosendale (http://www.rosendalecement.net/) mortars when color match is critical. The old 'K' grade (high lime content) mortars are usually fine for most repointing work unless this is structural or engineered masonry. Typically, softer is better. As John suggests, check out the Preservation Briefs - http://www.nps.gov/history/hps/tps/briefs/presbhom.htm.
Dave Metzger
Senior Member
Username: davemetzger

Post Number: 396
Registered: 07-2001
Posted on Tuesday, July 05, 2011 - 05:11 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Speaking of "K" mortar--do you know where the designations for mortar types M, S, N, O,[and K]) come from?

MaSoNwOrK

Knowing this makes the types a lot easier to remember
Lynn Javoroski CSI CCS LEED® AP SCIP Affiliate
Senior Member
Username: lynn_javoroski

Post Number: 1273
Registered: 07-2002


Posted on Tuesday, July 05, 2011 - 05:22 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Oh darn; here I thought it was MicroSoft Network, OK!
Tim Werbstein, AIA, CSI, CCS
Senior Member
Username: tim_werbstein

Post Number: 40
Registered: 09-2006
Posted on Wednesday, July 06, 2011 - 07:36 am:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

If the masonry is neither historic nor likely to become "historic," the following of historic mortar requirements is unimportant. A portland cement mortar, including natural portland cement (Rosedale), with latex additive should perform well, so long as the repointing mortar is not harder or less porous than the remaining existing mortar or masonry units.
John Bunzick, CCS, CCCA, LEED AP
Senior Member
Username: bunzick

Post Number: 1331
Registered: 03-2002
Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2011 - 06:26 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Tim,
Using the latex still seems unecessary to me. And wouldn't the latex have the potential to reduce the rate of water vaper transmission, with consequent increase in potential deterioration?
Tim Werbstein, AIA, CSI, CCS
Senior Member
Username: tim_werbstein

Post Number: 42
Registered: 09-2006
Posted on Thursday, July 14, 2011 - 07:59 am:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Unfortunately, this repointing post digressed into "historic" mortars, but the original post did not mention "historic" or "preservation."

I've always found latex unnecessary in masonry wall construction or repointing. I feel that solar heat and dry conditions can be more reliably handled in other ways. Latex can also affect color and wet-dry appearance--at least until the wall has weathered a bit.

Regardless of whether or not latex adversely affects vapor transmission, the essential requirement is that the repointing mortar (with or without latex) is neither harder nor less vapor-permeable than the remaining, existing mortar or masonry units. That would spell trouble.

For that same reason, portland-cement mortars are discouraged for old buildings constructed without portland cement.
Gerard Sanchis
Senior Member
Username: gerard_sanchis

Post Number: 31
Registered: 10-2009


Posted on Thursday, July 14, 2011 - 01:58 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

I understand the color issue, but assuming that portland cement and not lime mortar was used for the original construction, we should remember that when installed, the mortar shrunk due to water evaporation from the sand/cement/lime mix while the brick expands in size when exposed to humidity and the elements – the brick is smallest (size-wise) when it leaves the kiln. That’s why the walls are watertight when properly constructed.

In an existing building the brick will not expand anymore. Substituting latex additive for part of the water for repointing would in theory diminish the amount of shrinkage in the mortar and I wouldn’t dismiss its use. I’d suggest that a sample panel on the South or West side exposure be tried – 10-foot square should be enough. It should sit for a season or two if the schedule allows, see how it behaves and then make a decision on the use of additives.
Tim Werbstein, AIA, CSI, CCS
Senior Member
Username: tim_werbstein

Post Number: 43
Registered: 09-2006
Posted on Thursday, July 14, 2011 - 04:17 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

This would be a good research topic.

In my own experience, repointing mortar has negligible shrinkage. Unlike mortar for laying masonry, repointing mortar is pretty dry--mixed with just enough liquid to be like putty, and (ideally) compacted in layers in a well moistened joint. Where would the shrinkage come from? The worst problem would be if the joint had not been sufficiently premoistened and the bricks drew water out of the dry mortar.

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