Refinishing metal shower stalls

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Author Message Ellis C. Whitby, AIA, PE, CSI Junior Member Username: ecwhitby Post Number: 3 Registered: 03-2003 Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2004 - 11:28 am:    Has anyone any recommendations for refinishing painted metal shower stalls set on concrete basins/pans? The original stalls are galvanized metal panels with sealant between panels. The panels rest on a concrete shower pan. I do not know what the existing paint is. I am looking for some direction for preperation, sealants and the coating/paint. Lynn Javoroski Senior Member Username: lynn_javoroski Post Number: 113 Registered: 07-2002 Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2004 - 12:01 pm:    A while ago, I was asked to specify the refinishing of stainless steel panels in an elevator. I was soon convinced that it was easier and cheaper to remove the old and provide new. Trying to do the work in situ was absurd; removal and reinstallation was the same cost; refinishing was more expensive. I'd think that you would have to remove the stalls, clean the metal (probably to an SSPC 6), and repaint, reseal and reinstall. Unless there's some historic value, it sounds like a whole lot of additional expense to me. Richard Hird (Unregistered Guest) Unregistered guest Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2004 - 08:04 pm:    Ellis: Not to disagree with Lynn, because he is probably right that life cycle costs probably argue for dumpinging the metal, but you could look at an aluminum filled mastic paint, "Carbomastic by Carboline". I used it to repaint some badly rusted bridges. This product simply elimates the requirement for expensive surface prep. It does not last forever. You have to get rid of the rust to accomplish that. If you ar just trying to get out of the project, without an immediate failure, aluminum mastic is O'k. Dave Metzger Senior Member Username: davemetzger Post Number: 80 Registered: 07-2001 Posted on Wednesday, June 30, 2004 - 06:56 am:    We have had a couple of projects where we specified electrostatic painting, in place in the field, for repainting of elevator hoistway doors and frames. (Note that this is the method of paint application, not a specific paint type). To my mind, the biggest issue would be surface prep--not only rust, if any, but soap scum and similar detritus that would prevent paint adhesion. And for that I'd check with the paint manufacturer. Ellis C. Whitby, AIA, PE, CSI Member Username: ecwhitby Post Number: 4 Registered: 03-2003 Posted on Monday, July 12, 2004 - 06:21 pm:    All: Thanks for the advice and counsel. Anonymous   Posted on Saturday, July 31, 2004 - 01:29 pm:    I had the exact same problem. I attempted to paint the metal shower with appliance spray paint.. and it just wasn't worth it. Now I'm looking to replace my metal shower and I have not been able to find one. Mine is a standalone. David A Walsh Member Username: dwalsh Post Number: 3 Registered: 06-2004 Posted on Monday, August 02, 2004 - 01:51 pm:    David: Do you have more information or resources on electro-static painting in the field. We had a project that involved refurbishing anodized aluminum storefront. The client was a hospital in La Jolla, CA with storefront around an atrium that is close to the ocean. The aluminum had become badly pitted over the years. Refinishing aluminum in the field is usually problematic. Unless the framing system has removable caps, it would have to be done in the field. Traditional field paint leaves brush marks that compare badly to the factory finish that one expects from aluminum. I looked into electro-static painting. A member of our firm, who is Canadian, had heard of electro-static painting being done in Canada in the field for interior items, such as office equipment. Electro-static painting application does have a very smooth finish. The problem for architectural surfaces, I would think, is the curing or baking of the paint coating powder after it has been distributed on the metal surface. Anyway I did not find any satisfactory sources of experience for this type of application. I would be interested to find someone who did have that experience, either pro or con. Dave Metzger Senior Member Username: davemetzger Post Number: 87 Registered: 07-2001 Posted on Monday, August 02, 2004 - 02:40 pm:    Dave: We have just used electrostatic painting for interior surfaces. Obviously, the big issue for exterior application of spray-applied coatings is wind. These paints are air-dry or chemical cure (as epoxies), not baked-on. We have specified paints by Budeke's, Inc., www.budekes.com which is a Baltimore paint supply house, and by Perfection Paint & Color Company, subsidiary of Lilly Industrial Coatings, Inc. A Google search also turns up Epsco Corp. Coatings (www.epscocorp.com), which has a tab on their website about electrostatic painting. We specify the following for surface prep, for surfaces to receive electrostatic painting: Surfaces must be clean and dry, and free of dust, grease, oil, silicones, wax and rust. Sand glossy and chipped areas with 400-grit abrasive paper. Wipe clean using detergent solutions or high quality lacquer thinner as recommended by paint manufacturer. Mitch Miller,AIA ,CSI,CCS Senior Member Username: m2architek Post Number: 10 Registered: 02-2004 Posted on Monday, August 02, 2004 - 02:53 pm:    I believe the electrostatic process is "magnetic",charging the "paint ions" and then placing a negative charge on the material to recieve it. I have used this process very successfully on interior furniture refinishing. There is virtually no overspray, and any that there is, falls to the ground as "dust particles" whereas the paint will not adhere to anything not negatively charged. I am not sure how this process works on aluminum.....I am suspicious though John Bunzick, CCS, CCCA Senior Member Username: bunzick Post Number: 247 Registered: 03-2002 Posted on Monday, August 02, 2004 - 05:59 pm:    PPG makes a field-applied version of their Kynar coating called Megaflon MS. According to their literature, it meets the AAMA 2605 standard. I encountered this in a project where a metal panel manufacturer did a poor application of a metallic finish that caused the panels to appear different once installed. The contrator had it recoated with the field version of a Kynar finish (not sure it was PPG). I say "encountered" because I never got the opportunity to take a look at the process or the finished result, but as far as I know there were no problems with it. Obviously preparation is a key element, but I'm sure that your PPG rep can help with that. Their number is: Keeler & Long/PPG, 800-238-8596. David A Walsh Intermediate Member Username: dwalsh Post Number: 4 Registered: 06-2004 Posted on Monday, August 02, 2004 - 06:47 pm:    To all: Thank you for the leads and information.