|Marc C Chavez|
Post Number: 72
|Posted on Tuesday, February 01, 2005 - 05:17 pm: |
Yes I know it's a silly idea, but they're detailed and going up on the job with (you guessed it) no spec. (I was not employed here at that time.) So... Non-tempered, no adhesive and no paint system for the back.
I found a paint system:
Emery paper to scuff glass and then 2 coats of Tnemec series 66.
What about the adhesive? My fall back is 2-part 100% solids epoxy. The conrtactor will want to use small dabs of ASTM C 834 double-bubble.
Would the Dow 790 series silicones work? Would the "structural" Dow 800 series silicones work?
I'm sure that they want it tight to the wall.
And I don't want to "See" the sealant squiggle blead through the paint or via a temperature/moisture "ghost"
Post Number: 183
|Posted on Tuesday, February 01, 2005 - 05:23 pm: |
why not a mirror mastic? Palmer, isn't it?
|gerard sanchis (Unregistered Guest)
|Posted on Thursday, February 03, 2005 - 02:19 pm: |
Why not a double-sided tape?
The issue is compatibility.
I'd also want a space between the glass and the backing to allow water or water vapor a chance to escape.
Post Number: 18
|Posted on Monday, February 07, 2005 - 01:58 pm: |
We have just such a thing in our San Francisco office reception coffee bar, so it's probably indirectly our fault. :-)
It's important to note that our glass backsplash has a stainless steel base (the countertop is also stainless) of about 4 inches, to hold the glass off the wet countertop, as if it were a mirror.
ICD Coatings Opaci-Coat works with Dow 795, because Opaci-Coat is silicone-based. They've got a reliably opaque system, except in very light colors. On the other hand, if you've already gotten the Tnemec through the design process, you might want to ask Tnemec what's a compatible sealant or mastic with a little build for air space. Maybe they'd do an adhesion test for you; it could double as a mockup to be sure you don't read the adhesive through the paint.
Every time we do this, I fight and fight to get J-channels top and bottom, for mechanical attachment. I don't always get them, but it's important to try, especially if the glass goes very high or is untempered.