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Ralph Liebing
Senior Member
Username: rliebing

Post Number: 73
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Friday, April 23, 2004 - 01:13 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Would like your insight, comments, watch-outs, and specs direction for-- part-high, radius, free-standing walls with MDF surfacing on both sides-- as to construction, anchoring, framing, stability, etc. [Would like to see how we measure up to your info]. Thanks
Nina Dillon
Advanced Member
Username: nina

Post Number: 5
Registered: 04-2004
Posted on Friday, April 23, 2004 - 01:50 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

What is the radius?
How thick is the MDF?
How do you anticipate the craftsman to curve the MDF?
Ralph Liebing
Senior Member
Username: rliebing

Post Number: 74
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Friday, April 23, 2004 - 01:59 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Radii-- 28 feet; 35 feet
1/2" to 5/8" thick MDF
Option to field fabricate or shop fabricate
whole wall sctions
William C. Pegues, FCSI, CCS
Senior Member
Username: wpegues

Post Number: 270
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Sunday, May 02, 2004 - 01:01 am:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Ralph,

One thing about using mdf on walls, you can't treat it like drywall - that is, you can't 'join' the boards with something and then paint over the joint. You have to treat it like a wood panel.

We had an interiors group misunderstand a comment in the product literature that it is 'dimensionally stable' and in their idea that meant it would not expand or contract with temperature or respond to different humidity conditions.

On their own they had long hallways (no curves) applied like drywall. Over the drywall surface they had it screwed through the drywall to the studs. They spackeled the screw holes and they glued (unknown glue) the butted vertical sides of the mdf, and then filled the joint and standed it smooth.

They did use some logic from somewhere and never ran a length more than you would run a length of drywall partition without expansion joints.

Then over the whole wall they had it sprayed with a tone on tone textured coating (like Zolotone).

Then came the disaster as the vertical butt joints started cracking. They wanted to be angry with the manufacturer, me, I was simply amazed they had done such a thing.

The only solution that we could come up with was have the joint routed with a very small V-groove, which we suggested they paint (not fill) with a color of their choice, not bridging the vertical joint but letting it remain open. It was very small, almost non-existent, but it was there. They had no problem after that.

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