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Jerome J. Lazar, RA, CCS, CSI, NCARB
Senior Member
Username: lazarcitec

Post Number: 1867
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Wednesday, April 04, 2018 - 05:37 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

How to protect aluminum scupper from corrosion when aluminum is in touch with concrete or concrete block?
David G. Axt, CCS, CSI ,SCIP
Senior Member
Username: david_axt

Post Number: 1644
Registered: 03-2002


Posted on Wednesday, April 04, 2018 - 07:21 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Bituminous coating on the backside?
David G. Axt, CCS, CSI, SCIP
Specifications Consultant
Axt Consulting LLC
Jeffrey Wilson CSI CCS SCIP
Senior Member
Username: wilsonconsulting

Post Number: 250
Registered: 03-2006


Posted on Wednesday, April 04, 2018 - 07:39 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

I always recommend against using aluminum in contact w/ concrete or msry, since it's difficult to ensure that it will be properly isolated. In addition, joints in aluminum scuppers are usually sealed, making them prone to failure. Stainless-steel or another weldable metal solves both shortcomings, so that's what I always suggest to my clients.
Jeffrey Wilson CCS CSI SCIP
Wilson Consulting Inc
Ardmore PA
Jerome J. Lazar, RA, CCS, CSI, NCARB
Senior Member
Username: lazarcitec

Post Number: 1869
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Wednesday, April 04, 2018 - 09:31 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Bituminous Coating has certainly been the "industry standard", but its messy to use, Contractors hate using it so sometimes they use nothing.
Stainless steel is expensive, I spec stainless on the high end, luxury projects.
Galvanized metal does not last long in South Florida, with all the salt in the air.
Therefore I am looking for a coating that is relatively easy to apply, and "inexpensive".
For a while I was specifying SW Loxon, but SW won't warranty the use.
Latest possibility is a Fast Cure Epoxy like SW Macropoxy.
Lynn Javoroski FCSI CCS LEEDŽ AP SCIP Affiliate
Senior Member
Username: lynn_javoroski

Post Number: 2146
Registered: 07-2002


Posted on Wednesday, April 04, 2018 - 09:38 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Automotive paint?
Jerome J. Lazar, RA, CCS, CSI, NCARB
Senior Member
Username: lazarcitec

Post Number: 1871
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Wednesday, April 04, 2018 - 10:07 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Lynn, I am not a car geek, care to be more specific?
Lynn Javoroski FCSI CCS LEEDŽ AP SCIP Affiliate
Senior Member
Username: lynn_javoroski

Post Number: 2147
Registered: 07-2002


Posted on Wednesday, April 04, 2018 - 10:29 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Seriously, paint used on the exterior of a car, a lot of which is aluminum, and withstands pretty much anything that can be thrown at a car. Except maybe another car. You can get touch-up paint in spray cans. Candy-apple red, anyone?
Jerome J. Lazar, RA, CCS, CSI, NCARB
Senior Member
Username: lazarcitec

Post Number: 1873
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Wednesday, April 04, 2018 - 11:44 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Water based acrylic polyurethane paint is the most popular automotive paint, my SW Rep is looking into a spec.
Wayne Yancey
Senior Member
Username: wayne_yancey

Post Number: 864
Registered: 01-2008


Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2018 - 09:44 am:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Lynn,
My favorite color.
My 2016 H-D road king is candy-apple red.
James Sandoz, AIA, CSI, CCS, CCCA
Senior Member
Username: jsandoz

Post Number: 236
Registered: 06-2005


Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2018 - 10:26 am:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

I've had polyamide epoxy coatings recommended instead of bituminous coatings. They are two-part like many epoxies but are easier to work with than bituminous coatings and probably more environmentally friendly. I've been specifying polyamide epoxy for aluminum in contact with cementitious materials for a few years now and have had no push back from contractors. That doesn't necessarily mean they are following the specification. :-(
One example of the product is Sherwin-Williams ArmorSeal 1000HS.
David G. Axt, CCS, CSI ,SCIP
Senior Member
Username: david_axt

Post Number: 1645
Registered: 03-2002


Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2018 - 12:48 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

How about strips of self-adhered asphalt (or butyl) based membrane (Henry Blueskin, Grace Vycor, et.)? It is easy to apply (no waiting for coatings to dry) and the installer probably already has it in their truck.
David G. Axt, CCS, CSI, SCIP
Specifications Consultant
Axt Consulting LLC
Dewayne Dean
Senior Member
Username: ddean

Post Number: 156
Registered: 02-2016


Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2018 - 03:04 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

I like David's idea.
Dave Metzger
Senior Member
Username: davemetzger

Post Number: 727
Registered: 07-2001
Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2018 - 03:35 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Self-adhered asphaltic membranes sound OK, clean solution, as long as they are on fully-concealed surfaces of the scupper; the membrane will degrade on prolonged exposure to UV. Also, it will act as a bond-breaker with concrete, so need to detail accordingly
Wayne Yancey
Senior Member
Username: wayne_yancey

Post Number: 865
Registered: 01-2008


Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2018 - 04:24 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

I know we are refering to aluminum, the American Galvanizers Association states:

"Paint is not a reliable method of deterring the return current path of the galvanic cell; rubber or some other insulating material would be best for that."

As David wrote, a rubberized self-adhered membrane.

Wayne
Brian E. Trimble, CDT
Senior Member
Username: brian_e_trimble_cdt

Post Number: 100
Registered: 08-2005


Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2018 - 04:30 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Aluminum is reactive in the presence of "fresh" concrete or mortar. I am not sure how reactive it is when the concrete or mortar has cured. I believe it is the free alkakis that could create a problem, but once the concrete or mortar has cured I don't think it would be as much of a problem. Putting any kind of coating may be enough.
John Bunzick, CCS, CCCA, LEED AP
Senior Member
Username: bunzick

Post Number: 1743
Registered: 03-2002
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2018 - 11:14 am:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

I always spec'd what David suggested - peel and stick sheets. It's easy to get, easy to do, and reliable.
Jerome J. Lazar, RA, CCS, CSI, NCARB
Senior Member
Username: lazarcitec

Post Number: 1874
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2018 - 11:39 am:   Edit PostDelete PostPrint Post

Thanks for all the input, I am going to provide 4 possible solutions:
Bituminous Paint
Epoxy Paint
Water-white methacrylate lacquer (called out in the Building Code
or Self Adhered WP Membrane
let the GC select the product.

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